I have made 3 bodice mockups now. It was definitely a challenge getting to this point because I did not own a dressform. To make my bodice pattern I literally wrapped myself in cling wrap and taped myself up, cut myself out of it, copied the taped pieces onto paper and added seam allowance, then cut those pattern pieces out of my cheap polyester satin.
I stitched up my mockup and tried it on to see where it needed adjustment. At this point I didn’t have proper boning ordered yet so I took some heavy duty zip ties I had laying around to put in the seam channels.
I then sewed a second corset, altering that, and finally my third mockup I used left over fabric from when I sewed a dress for my friend’s wedding. I wanted it to be something I could eventually finish and wear out.
The fit on the corset is absolutely key because all the weight from my train will be held up by my waist. I did some research and discovered the best material for a strength layer and comfort is cotton coutil. Of course I didn’t want to spend more money but begrudgingly, I did order some coutil from Bias Bespoke along with petersham ribbon for the waist stay and half inch petersham ribbon to use for lacing the back. I’m just temporarily using a zipper closure because it makes it easier to put on and off for fitting.
The ribbon is soft against the skin and has a nice sheen. The blue coutil color I hope should help my main silk fabric look less orange once it overlays. I don’t regret this purchase!
